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Got Bored And Started First Modification: Storage/battery Box


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#1 RFalcon

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 03:39 PM

Attached File  IMG_3053.JPG   133.67KB   10 downloadsAttached File  IMG_3055.JPG   92.33KB   10 downloadsDecided I may not want to install house batteries inside the camper, plus I wanted outside storage for the weight distribution bars. Found an aluminum toolbox 70"Lx14"Wx16"H in black diamond plate, which matches the front of the trailer (mostly). It allows me to leave the stock wiring in place, though I may change the gauge of the existing cables. I can put the charge controller inside the garage area on the front wall, to keep the run from the controller to the batteries shorter, either by going through the floor, or the the front of the unit, if I need a shorter run.  The box isn't screwed down into the frame, yet, but I wanted to make sure the weight of 2 250ah 6v AGM batteries wasn't too off balance on one side. Once the box is secured, it will handle the weight fine. It'll make a fine storage box, even if I don't put the batteries inside of it.



#2 RFalcon

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 03:54 PM

I'll also install the shunt for the battery monitor and a battery cutoff switch inside the box also. Plenty of room.



#3 Oregon_Camper

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 05:35 PM

Very nice!!   :ibbanana:


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#4 skameigh

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 02:35 PM

Very nice! I like it. Im an aviation electrician and about to purchase my first RV (Outback 240URS.) This is def a mod I will be looking into!



#5 RFalcon

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 06:15 PM

Very nice! I like it. Im an aviation electrician and about to purchase my first RV (Outback 240URS.) This is def a mod I will be looking into!

Same model! I think the 240URS is a popular layout.  I'll post a photo of the wiring when I'm done. I have to check placement of the charge controller inside the garage area. It needs to be a very short run from the batteries. I really wanted to place the batteries inside near the fridge, and run cables from solar panels down the fridge vent, but that would require changing the current wiring to a large degree. This way would be simpler, and could be changed later when I have more time.



#6 RFalcon

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 06:41 PM

Very nice!!   :ibbanana:

Thanks



#7 Parrothead

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 09:28 AM

Nice looking mod! I did something similar but decided to go with two 12v batteries. Found a plastic toolbox (Stanley, I think) that fit them both, added venting and a cut-off switch, and went to 2ga. cabling. Bolted it to the existing battery box frame and was able to clean up the wiring in that area considerably.I haven't upgraded the controller yet but plan on retaining mine in the stock location.
Making these campers our own is part of the fun, and it helps to know it better when it's time for maintenance. Enjoy!

#8 RFalcon

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 07:17 AM

Nice looking mod! I did something similar but decided to go with two 12v batteries. Found a plastic toolbox (Stanley, I think) that fit them both, added venting and a cut-off switch, and went to 2ga. cabling. Bolted it to the existing battery box frame and was able to clean up the wiring in that area considerably.I haven't upgraded the controller yet but plan on retaining mine in the stock location.
Making these campers our own is part of the fun, and it helps to know it better when it's time for maintenance. Enjoy!

Thanks. Was going to start the mod today, but keep having second thoughts. Might just trace the wiring back to the distribution and see if the batteries could be hooked in at a different location with major rewiring.  The unit's in my driveway, backed up to the, so I cant extend the slide. We're taking it out this weekend, so I'd have chance to look under the couch for battery space and wiring access. That would be the logical place, considering the logistical needs of a solar setup. It also means I'll be unscrewing the underlayment - probably - to access the basement to trace the wiring. WISH THEY'D JUST PUBLISH A WIRING DIAGRAM LOL.



#9 RFalcon

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 07:25 AM

Theoretically, I'd just have to run a new positive cable from battery to converter, new ground wire to frame, and remove the old ones - making the assumption nothing feeds off the original power line at some hidden location. It shouldn't - everything 12v should come from the fusebox - but we all know about what happens when we ass/u/me.

 

Actually, I wouldn't have to remove the old lines, just disconnect them and tape off the ends for safety.

 

Any knowledgable thoughts on the matter?



#10 RFalcon

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 05:52 PM

Finally got around to attaching the toolbar to the tongue: 6 #14 self tapping hex screws with fender washers and lock washers. Before tightening, I loaded lap seal between the frame and box, to help the box set more firmly and prevent rust from trapped moisture. Would have used automotive seam seal, but I was out. Also lap sealed over the screw heads.

#11 RFalcon

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 05:55 PM

Also figured out how I'm attaching the shunt and battery cutoff using existing wiring. Will probably upgrade wiring late, but a step at a time. Hopefully I'll get to the battery and monitor installation tomorrow, and post photos.

#12 RFalcon

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 05:57 PM

Forgot photosAttached File  IMG_3089.JPG   158.56KB   2 downloadsAttached File  IMG_3090.JPG   139.53KB   2 downloads

#13 RFalcon

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 07:31 PM

Continuing story: this evening I put a layer of Denshield on the bottom of the box; was going to use wood, but I had the Denshield handy. The Denshield makes the bottom flat (covering the screw heads), adds a bit of support, and brings the top of the battery above the inside lip of the box - so if water does get inside, it will run down the sides of the batteries, not over the top possibly shorting the battery. Drilled through the bottom and brought the existing battery cables up from the box, and attached the negative to the shunt for the battery monitor, and the positive to the cutoff switch.

Tomorrow I'll make the cables which run to the batteries and hook them up, fasten down the shunt and switch, and run the battery monitor lines through the hole I just drilled, and into the camper, then mount the monitor. So, batteries should be installed tomorrow. Probably go out this weekend and use the monitor to start checking power usage.

Not related, but added photos of the VW paint job, which I spent most of the day buffing (before buffing photo and a photo of the coarse buffed fender). Shiny like glass in the fender photo. Two more buffing stages to go - medium grade compound and fine).

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#14 RFalcon

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 11:57 AM

Since my mechanic decided he should get a day off for his birthday, I finished the camper battery upgrade - two 6v 250 amp AGMs wired in series, a cutoff switch and a shunt for the battery monitor - to be installed after a short break. We now have power

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#15 RFalcon

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 06:32 PM

Ok - last photo under this topic. Couldn't decide where I wanted to mount the battery monitor, so I hooked it up and left it in the exterior box - so I could monitor battery usage. The camper has a .2 to .3 phantom draw on the batteries. The batteries were full when I pulled them from the old ,, and they're only taking a .8 amp trickle charge from shore power. Any questions on wiring, please ask

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