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Water Pump Won't Shut Off Doesn't seem to sense pressure

#1 User is offline   Scoutr2 

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Post icon  Posted 21 August 2006 - 12:17 PM

We just got our new (2007) 29BHS and love it, although we've yet to get out camping (had it about 3 days, so far). We towed it home and set it up in the driveway for loading and exploring all the amenities (we last had a Coleman Bayside Pop-up).

Everything worked fine at the dealership. We started up the fridge to learn where to set the temp. control. We had it set as low as it will go and the freezer went to 10 below zero and the fridge wouldnt get above 20 degrees above zero. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, we spent the first night in it in our driveway (just couldn't wait a couple weeks for the long weekend!). Some time during the night, the water pump kicked on (no one used any water during the night). The pump would not shut off, unless I turned it off. The pump acts like there is air in the system somewhere. I opened every hot and cold faucet (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub faucets, outside kitchen faucet). I let all the water run for several minutes and did not detect any significant air escaping, then shut everything off - starting with the furthest away from the pump. But still, the pump runs and will not shut off. :dunno:

Anyone have any ideas here? I have an appointment to take it back to the dealer this Saturday, but it's a $40 pull over and back (about 70 miles - closest Outback dealer to me), so if I can solve this on my own (or with someone elses experienced suggestions) it would save me a lot of time and money.

I'm glad we followed Keystone's suggestion in the Owner's Manual that says to camp in it in the driveway before taking it out - so as to avoid these frustrations while camping.

Other than that - we LOVE our new Outback. :)


UPDATE:
Took the Outback to the dealer today (Pontiac RV) and they replaced the pump. They also addressed a couple other concerns and showed me how to manually crank in the slide. :)

Just FYI - when I read about the manual slide return procedure in Keystone's Owner's Manual, it said that there are two types of slide mechanism: electric motor/mechanical (screw), and hydraulic (pump and cylinders). The manual said to refer to the manufacturers pamphlet in my Owners packet. The pamphlet was for a hydraulic slide. Pontiac RV said I had a electric/mechanical slide - that all Outbacks did. Only higher priced, heavier trailers use the hydraulic slides.

(Somewhere, there's someone witrh a hydraulic slide that thinks they have a mechanical!) <_<

Someone at the factory put the wrong pamphlet in my packet. Now there's a comforting thought! doh

We're taking it on the maiden voyage on Labor Day weekend. We can't wait! :)
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#2 User is offline   huntr70 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 12:39 PM

Check outside where the water fill is.

If the check valve is bad on the city water fill, the water will push out the inlet. That may be why the pressure never builds.

If it is that, I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the whole water fill.



Steve
Steve and Vicki
2 kids

#3 User is offline   hurricaneplumber 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 12:42 PM

How much water is in the tank???

When mine gets low the pump runs all the time trying to pick up more water.
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#4 User is offline   Scoutr2 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 01:15 PM

View Posthurricaneplumber, on Aug 21 2006, 12:42 PM, said:

How much water is in the tank???

When mine gets low the pump runs all the time trying to pick up more water.



The gage shows 1/3 full in the fresh water tank - the pump produces acceptable pressure, even with more than one faucet turned on. I thought of this, but thanks for answering.
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#5 User is offline   hurricaneplumber 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 01:36 PM

SWITCH SHUT-OFF
Restrictions in a plumbing system may cause the
pump to rapid cycle (ON/OFF within 2 sec.) during low
flow demands. Cycling should be minimized to
prevent pulsating flow, and to achieve maximum
pump life.
To determine if adjustment is necessary, turn a faucet
ON to lower than average flow of water. The pump
should cycle, but its "OFF time" must be 2 sec. or
longer. If the cycling is correct, leave well enough
alone. If the pump is cycling rapidly increase the
setting by turning the screw clockwise (1_ turn MAX.)
until the pump operates for 1 sec. with at least 2 sec.
"OFF time".

PUMP WILL NOT SHUT-OFF / RUNS WHEN FAUCET IS CLOSED:
Output side (pressure) plumbing for leaks, and inspect for leaky valves or toilet.
For air trapped in outlet side (water heater) or pump head.
For correct voltage to pump (±10%).
For loose drive assembly or pump head screws.
Are the valves or internal check valve held open by debris or is rubber swollen?
Pressure switch operation/adjustment, refer to shut-off adjustment for switch.

Pump Information
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#6 User is offline   skippershe 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 01:59 PM

:action: Hi Scoutr2! :action:

Welcome to Outbackers :)

Congrats on your new 29BHS, I'm sure you will have everything working just fine in no time wink_smile

Enjoy and Happy Camping,
Dawn
~ Dawn ~
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#7 User is offline   PDX_Doug 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 03:29 PM

:action: Welcome to Outbackers, Scoutr2! :action:
And congratulations on the new Outback! thumbleft

There is a small screw on the top of the pump that adjusts the sensitivity of the pressure switch. You should be able to dial that down a little to solve the problem. Also - and this may sound dumb - if you were camping at home, was the city water hose hooked up? If so, you do not need to be running the pump. Like I said, dumb question, but you would be surprised... wink_smile

Happy Trails,
Doug
Camping throughout the great Northwest
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#8 User is offline   CamperAndy 

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 03:32 PM

Sounds like the shut off switch. To see if more pressure will turn it off connect to shore water and just barely open the valve so you can get pressure but not a lot of volume. If the pump turns on when you open a few taps and then turns off when you close them, then the switch may just need adjustment.
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#9 User is offline   rman45 

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 11:03 AM

Last month I modified my water pump by boxing and insulation. When I put it all back together, I experienced the same issue of it not turning off. I did everything I knew including removing the pump, disassembling the head, inspecting seals, and reinstalling. What fixed my problem was the adjustment screw in the very middle of the end of the pump. First I turned it all the way in, then slownly backed it out. Before long the pump shut off. I turned the water in the kitchen sink on and let the pump cycle to make sure it was operating properly, and it was. I think it depends on the water pump model you have, but the owners manual should give you a good idea where the adjustment screw is. Good luck!

And welcome to Outbackers!

Randy
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#10 User is offline   Scoutr2 

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 11:32 AM

View Postrman45, on Aug 22 2006, 11:03 AM, said:

Last month I modified my water pump by boxing and insulation. When I put it all back together, I experienced the same issue of it not turning off. I did everything I knew including removing the pump, disassembling the head, inspecting seals, and reinstalling. What fixed my problem was the adjustment screw in the very middle of the end of the pump. First I turned it all the way in, then slownly backed it out. Before long the pump shut off. I turned the water in the kitchen sink on and let the pump cycle to make sure it was operating properly, and it was. I think it depends on the water pump model you have, but the owners manual should give you a good idea where the adjustment screw is. Good luck!

And welcome to Outbackers!

Randy


Thanks for the insight. Tonight, after work, I'm going to put about 25 gallons of water in the tank, check the fitting on the pump inlet, and then try to adjust the pressure setting. What baffles me is that it worked OK for a day and then for no apparent reason, it started acting up. If this fails to correct the problem I'll take it back to the dealer. It is under factory warranty.
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#11 User is offline   HootBob 

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 03:13 PM

Just remember sometimes things loosen up when towing the TT with the bouncing around
So check every now and then

Don
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#12 User is offline   luv2rv 

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 08:12 PM

I had a problem occur early this year. My sister borrowed the trailer and the first night they had it the pump kept running until they shut it off. Same thing would happen when they turned it on again.

What was happening is there was a small split in one of the caps on the water low points (which weren't protruding out of the underbelly I'll add).

So the pump was running and forcing water into the enclosed underbelly at a very low rate of flow. When I pulled the underbelly down I was met with Torrent of water coming at me. Nothing was leaking out either it was all collecting in the underbelly. Have a look underneath yours and see if it is sagging anywhere.

Just a thought.

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#13 User is online   Oregon_Camper 

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 01:55 AM

View Posthuntr70, on Aug 21 2006, 10:39 AM, said:

Check outside where the water fill is.

If the check valve is bad on the city water fill, the water will push out the inlet. That may be why the pressure never builds.

If it is that, I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the whole water fill.


Steve


Funny you should say that...I just remember seeing water outside my tank on my last trip. Guess I will have to inspect my Check Value. Any clues on what to look for?

#14 User is offline   Scoutr2 

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Posted 25 August 2006 - 08:20 AM

View Posthurricaneplumber, on Aug 21 2006, 01:36 PM, said:

SWITCH SHUT-OFF
Restrictions in a plumbing system may cause the
pump to rapid cycle (ON/OFF within 2 sec.) during low
flow demands. Cycling should be minimized to
prevent pulsating flow, and to achieve maximum
pump life.
To determine if adjustment is necessary, turn a faucet
ON to lower than average flow of water. The pump
should cycle, but its "OFF time" must be 2 sec. or
longer. If the cycling is correct, leave well enough
alone. If the pump is cycling rapidly increase the
setting by turning the screw clockwise (1_ turn MAX.)
until the pump operates for 1 sec. with at least 2 sec.
"OFF time".

PUMP WILL NOT SHUT-OFF / RUNS WHEN FAUCET IS CLOSED:
Output side (pressure) plumbing for leaks, and inspect for leaky valves or toilet.
For air trapped in outlet side (water heater) or pump head.
For correct voltage to pump (±10%).
For loose drive assembly or pump head screws.
Are the valves or internal check valve held open by debris or is rubber swollen?
Pressure switch operation/adjustment, refer to shut-off adjustment for switch.

Pump Information


Well, the other evening I put 12 gal. of water in the fresh water tank and the gauge said 1/3 full. I tried the pressure adjustment using the screw in the center of the pump head (THAT was interesting - trying to fit my wide rear between the front bed and the wall, working at the bottom of a small enclosure, with the pump upside down and using a bent-shaft screwdriver in the blind!). I screwed it all the way in, then backed it out - to no avail. The pump continues to run. doh

Guess I'll have to keep my Saturday morning appointment. I'm sure not a happy camper - having to kill a Saturday, spend $40 in gas to pull it to the dealer (75 miles one way), and I've had it exactly one week! I also have a laundry list of other stuff that needs to be addressed, but those can wait until the end of the camping season. :angry:

I hope I made a wise decision by buying an Outback. Especially after reading the thread on all the delamination problems with the newer models. You can bet that I'll be watching the upper portion of the nose like a hawk! <_<

View Posthurricaneplumber, on Aug 21 2006, 01:36 PM, said:

SWITCH SHUT-OFF
Restrictions in a plumbing system may cause the
pump to rapid cycle (ON/OFF within 2 sec.) during low
flow demands. Cycling should be minimized to
prevent pulsating flow, and to achieve maximum
pump life.
To determine if adjustment is necessary, turn a faucet
ON to lower than average flow of water. The pump
should cycle, but its "OFF time" must be 2 sec. or
longer. If the cycling is correct, leave well enough
alone. If the pump is cycling rapidly increase the
setting by turning the screw clockwise (1_ turn MAX.)
until the pump operates for 1 sec. with at least 2 sec.
"OFF time".

PUMP WILL NOT SHUT-OFF / RUNS WHEN FAUCET IS CLOSED:
Output side (pressure) plumbing for leaks, and inspect for leaky valves or toilet.
For air trapped in outlet side (water heater) or pump head.
For correct voltage to pump (±10%).
For loose drive assembly or pump head screws.
Are the valves or internal check valve held open by debris or is rubber swollen?
Pressure switch operation/adjustment, refer to shut-off adjustment for switch.

Pump Information


Well, the other evening I put 12 gal. of water in the fresh water tank and the gauge said 1/3 full. I tried the pressure adjustment using the screw in the center of the pump head (THAT was interesting - trying to fit my wide rear between the front bed and the wall, working at the bottom of a small enclosure, with the pump upside down and using a bent-shaft screwdriver in the blind!). I screwed it all the way in, then backed it out - to no avail. The pump continues to run. doh

Guess I'll have to keep my Saturday morning appointment at the dealership. I'm sure not a happy camper - having to kill a Saturday, spend $40 in gas to pull it to the dealer (75 miles one way), and I've had it exactly one week! I also have a laundry list of other stuff that needs to be addressed, but those can wait until the end of the camping season. :angry:

I hope I made a wise decision by buying an Outback. Especially after reading the thread on all the delamination problems with the newer models. You can bet that I'll be watching the upper portion of the nose like a hawk! <_<
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#15 User is offline   huntr70 

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Posted 25 August 2006 - 08:30 AM

View PostOregon_Camper, on Aug 23 2006, 02:55 AM, said:

View Posthuntr70, on Aug 21 2006, 10:39 AM, said:

Check outside where the water fill is.

If the check valve is bad on the city water fill, the water will push out the inlet. That may be why the pressure never builds.

If it is that, I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the whole water fill.


Steve


Funny you should say that...I just remember seeing water outside my tank on my last trip. Guess I will have to inspect my Check Value. Any clues on what to look for?

If the water is leaking through the check valave, you will see it coming out the city water fill.

Pull the rubber stopper of the outside and run your pump. If water comes out, the check valve leaks.

A quick solution is to screw on a blowout valve. It at least stops the flow and you can use the pump like normal.


Steve
Steve and Vicki
2 kids

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