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Carrier Airv Thermostat Conversion


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#1 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 08:57 AM

I have gone into my relay card to install a thermostate because there is so much communications problems with the remote. My remote had been working intermittantly and I was unable to reset it or get it to communicate. Reasons for changing to wall thermostat:
1. Lost Communication with remote.
2. ability to run fan during heat mode to distribute the heat more evenly within the trailer
3. frustration with Carrier and their lack of support for the unit
4. avoiding replacing an operational unit and its cost of over 1200 dollars for parts alone

Steps to install wall thermostat:
1. remove grill
2. unplug remote sensing card from the relay box.
3. cut the card off the 10-wire cable. Leave enough wire to be able to splice tie into 4 wires.
4. Yellow - compressor, red - low speed fan, Black - high speed fan, Blue - propane furnace exciter.
5. grounding these wires will make the various components start.
6. run a ground wire to your thermostat to the common terminal.
7. all wiring returning to the unit will be grounds when activated by the thermostat.

Thermostat. I am going to purchase a thermostat today. I will be looking for a battery operated unit with a digital temperature sensor. Obviously a mercury switch thermostat will not work well in a moving vehicle. Honeywell makes a thermostat with a time delay for compressor restart. That will be helpful as a loaded compressor will not start and possibly burn out if attempted to restart immediately after shut down. The factory time delay function will be eliminated in this scenario as that function was taken by the thermostat card.

Note: you will lose the function of the thermister that fits in the evaporator coil that protects against icing up. That should not be a problem if your unit is charged properly.

Legals: This is what I am doing. Do so with your unit at your own risk. I assume no liability for your unit.

Bob

#2 egregg57

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:45 PM

I have gone into my relay card to install a thermostate because there is so much communications problems with the remote. My remote had been working intermittantly and I was unable to reset it or get it to communicate. Reasons for changing to wall thermostat:
1. Lost Communication with remote.
2. ability to run fan during heat mode to distribute the heat more evenly within the trailer
3. frustration with Carrier and their lack of support for the unit
4. avoiding replacing an operational unit and its cost of over 1200 dollars for parts alone

Steps to install wall thermostat:
1. remove grill
2. unplug remote sensing card from the relay box.
3. cut the card off the 10-wire cable. Leave enough wire to be able to splice tie into 4 wires.
4. Yellow - compressor, red - low speed fan, Black - high speed fan, Blue - propane furnace exciter.
5. grounding these wires will make the various components start.
6. run a ground wire to your thermostat to the common terminal.
7. all wiring returning to the unit will be grounds when activated by the thermostat.

Thermostat. I am going to purchase a thermostat today. I will be looking for a battery operated unit with a digital temperature sensor. Obviously a mercury switch thermostat will not work well in a moving vehicle. Honeywell makes a thermostat with a time delay for compressor restart. That will be helpful as a loaded compressor will not start and possibly burn out if attempted to restart immediately after shut down. The factory time delay function will be eliminated in this scenario as that function was taken by the thermostat card.

Note: you will lose the function of the thermister that fits in the evaporator coil that protects against icing up. That should not be a problem if your unit is charged properly.

Legals: This is what I am doing. Do so with your unit at your own risk. I assume no liability for your unit.

Bob



Many have done this. I installed a Hunter digital thermostat. Pictures and steps are located in the Mods forum, should be under my screen name. You are not the first, nor will you be the last!

Eric

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#3 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 09:16 PM

Thanks Eric. I had looked for this information before but could not find it.

Bob

#4 radiogeek97

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 06:37 AM

hi folks

not to bring up an old post but I am in this same situation.  Just picked up a new to me 06 americamp trailer and it has a carrier air v with no remote.  I have tryied one universal remote from amazon with no luck, and i just stumbled across this post.   The unit will go into emergency cool so i know the roof unit is ok, however i cant leave it like this for my wife she wont want to get a step stool to turn it on like that plus the efault temp is too warm for her.  I cant seem to find the post with the pics of the mod mensioned above.  ANY  pics of the mod would be a godsend.  I am very comfortable with electronics so i think this mod would be Great!   thanks in advance from  greater boston 



#5 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 07:13 AM

I eliminated the remote and installed a wall thermostat.  previous posts should be enough information to complete the mod



#6 radiogeek97

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 09:24 AM

sir

     i looked thru the web and did not find sufficient explanations to feel confident enough to cut into this circuit board.  my carrier air v board does not have a ten wire connector inside it it it has an 8 wire and a three wire connector inside it  the post above mensions ten wire connector.   the 8 wire connector has all the colors mensioned.  i do not have a furnace so i dont need the blue.  the 8 wire connector in mine has the red yellow and black wires  BUR the three wire connector has red yellow and white  so i am not sure #1 if this is the right set of connectord (although these are the only large ones with multiple wres)  i cant figure out how to attach a pic of what i have here otherwise i would.  So if you have a link to an artle with more info Pics ect Please post it.  i assure you that i am not trying to get others to do my work i have looked and failed, and just dont have the $$$ to rip out and replace a semi working ac system.  im just looking for a bit of help thats all not a free lunch

 

 

thanks 



#7 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 06:20 AM

 If you look for 'Airv manual there is a link on the web - bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/airv.pdf  Figure 4-10 shows the power pcb connections.  You need only 2 connections plus power to operate.  From this it looks like terminal 5 on your 8-wire is 'compressor', terminal 3 is power, and terminal 1 on the 3-wire connector is 'fan'.  You may be able to find more information in the mods section of this forum.

 

Bob



#8 Resqtool844

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 04:09 PM

Hey Bob! Which thermastate model did you go with that has the start delay in it?
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#9 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 04:30 PM

The time delay is a function of the AirV control board.  Once the compressor cuts out the board start its timer and will not allow a restart immediately.  That is to allow the refrigerant to equalize so that you are not trying to start the compressor under load.



#10 Porter family

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 11:15 PM

This thermostat should work for this. I will be trying it out on my 29BHS in a few days.

 

https://www.ebay.com...l-/282576959560

 

manual for the thermostat

http://liferebooted....ostat Guide.pdf



#11 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 27 October 2017 - 09:27 AM

That's kind of pricey.  You can get one at the 'e-pay' for about 10 bucks.  It needs to be battery operated and you run the 12v+ to the common terminal. (red) https://www.ebay.com...L0AAOSwIgpZ3ST4



#12 Porter family

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 04:51 PM

I am wrong. Not only is it expensive but it energizes not ground the outputs so it won't work on the airv. Luckily amazon will take it back. Heading to home depot to get the one you reccomended

#13 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 07:48 AM

12v+ should be sent to the thermostat and it returns 12v+ to the various relays.  I don't understand why you want to return ground back to your relay board.  Ground is common on the relay board and 12v+ energizes the relays.

 

Bob



#14 ob277rl

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 08:45 AM

I have gone into my relay card to install a thermostate because there is so much communications problems with the remote. My remote had been working intermittantly and I was unable to reset it or get it to communicate. Reasons for changing to wall thermostat:
1. Lost Communication with remote.
2. ability to run fan during heat mode to distribute the heat more evenly within the trailer
3. frustration with Carrier and their lack of support for the unit
4. avoiding replacing an operational unit and its cost of over 1200 dollars for parts alone

Steps to install wall thermostat:
1. remove grill
2. unplug remote sensing card from the relay box.
3. cut the card off the 10-wire cable. Leave enough wire to be able to splice tie into 4 wires.
4. Yellow - compressor, red - low speed fan, Black - high speed fan, Blue - propane furnace exciter.
5. grounding these wires will make the various components start.
6. run a ground wire to your thermostat to the common terminal.
7. all wiring returning to the unit will be grounds when activated by the thermostat.

Thermostat. I am going to purchase a thermostat today. I will be looking for a battery operated unit with a digital temperature sensor. Obviously a mercury switch thermostat will not work well in a moving vehicle. Honeywell makes a thermostat with a time delay for compressor restart. That will be helpful as a loaded compressor will not start and possibly burn out if attempted to restart immediately after shut down. The factory time delay function will be eliminated in this scenario as that function was taken by the thermostat card.

Note: you will lose the function of the thermister that fits in the evaporator coil that protects against icing up. That should not be a problem if your unit is charged properly.

Legals: This is what I am doing. Do so with your unit at your own risk. I assume no liability for your unit.

Bob



#15 Santa Fe TX Bob

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:29 AM

Apparently I had forgotten how I wired it.  Regardless, if 12v+ is your common side of the relays then send 12v- to the thermostat.  It matters not which direction the pixies go through the coil of the relays.  I have since eliminated all but the filter grill to the AirV.  My upper unit was leaking freon® so I replaced it with a Coleman HP2 heat pump.  Your thermostat should have a common terminal.  Which ever you run to the common of the thermostat will complete the circuit of the various relay coils. 






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