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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have recommendations for de-winterizing and getting the unit road ready? I know it's early, but I'm anxious to get back at it. I had the dealer winterize last fall but would prefer to de-winterize myself. Not sure if it's just as simple as flushing the tanks/drains, etc.

I'd like to camp around the third week of March if the weather isn't too bad. I guess I could always leave it winterized and "rough-it' for a weekend.

Outbackers Contributor
4,740 Posts
Here is a great site to WINTERIZE:
Spring Checklist:
Here is another list to DE-WINTERIZE / Spring Start-up:

A. To begin spring startup on your unit:

Remove all protective covers and plugs. (Any duct tape adhesive left behind may be removed with WD-40.)
Wash interior of your unit with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Turn on all lights, replace bulbs as necessary.
Check operation of all appliances.
Open all windows/roof vents to air out inside (clean and wipe with warm water and liquid dishwashing soap).
Open windows/shades.
Clean exterior of your unit with mild soap and lukewarm water - use a streak cleaner such as "Reliable Products" - aluminum black streak remover or comparable brand product.
Lubricate hinges, locks, and moving parts as necessary.
Reinstall any dry-cell batteries in clocks/smoke detectors etc.
Close water taps.
Remove moth balls and rodent bait from interior and exterior compartments. (Be sure to remove from the vicinity of the hot water heater and refrigerator gas burner assembly.)
B. Air Conditioner

Remove protective cover.
Remove air shroud and check cooling coils, blower fan and motor.
Vacuum or wash the condenser coil.
Clean the cooling fins.
Clean air filters.
Clean any dust from discharge air opening and ceiling grill.
C. Refrigerator

See tips listed separately on "Refrigerator Operating Tips" sheet in your manual.
Open the refrigerator side vent and look up to the roof vent and check for nesting, remove debris if necessary. Remember to remove mothballs from the vicinity of the gas burner assembly.
D. Water System

Close pressure relief valve on water heater. Remember to remove mothballs from the vicinity of the gas burner assembly.
Close all drain valves and faucets (including shower head).
Flush out RV antifreeze by running water through entire system.
Reinstall drain plug (removed in the winterization process).
Add a few ounces of baking soda to the tank, drive around to mix solution, then drain and refill.
If your water has a bad taste or strange odor, take these steps to kill bacteria that may be present:
a. Fill fresh water tank half way with clean, fresh water.
b. Mix 1/4 cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity in a container with a gallon or two of clean water and pour this mixture into the water tank.
c. Top off the water tank with fresh water. Go for a drive to mix the solution.
d. Pump water through each faucet so that all the lines are filled with the water/bleach mixture from the tank. Usually, running a quart of water out each faucet is adequate.
e. The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons of water. Run the hot water faucets until this much solution has passed to insure that the old water has been purged from the hot-water tank, and it is now filled with the water/bleach solution from the water tank.
f. Let the water stand for several hours.
g. Drain the entire water system, hot water tank included.
h. To remove the bleach odor, mix 1/2 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour into the freshwater tank.
i. Fill the tank completely and pump this solution through the water heater and rest of the water lines. This solution can sit in the system for a few days. Driving the rig around the block will slosh water around and thoroughly clean the tank.
j. Drain the entire system and refill with fresh, clean water.
E. Awning

Check for damage/mildew by rolling out.
F. Tires

Inspect tires for wear.
a. Tires should be replaced if tread is worn down to 1/16 inch or if tread sidewall is cracked, cut or flaking.
b. Select tires of the same construction, load range and size.
Reinflate tires with proper pressure.
Remove trailer from jacks or blocks.
For safety sake after a few miles traveling on your first trip in the Spring, check the lug nuts to be sure they are still tight.
G. Furnace

Remove cover.
Check for insect nests and lint accumulation.
Turn on the electric power and turn on the thermostats (to check for operation).
Turn on the main gas supply to the furnace.
H. LP System

Open the main LP-gas valve and check the LP gas system for leaks. (Use soapy water or commercial leak detector solution and brush to check each gas line connection.)
A rusted tank will not be filled by an LP gas attendant, sand and repaint if necessary.
Consult a trained LP-gas technician to correct any leak problems.
I. Electrical System

Check for short circuit between positive and negative battery cables with circuit tester or ohmmeter. If no short circuit is detected then reconnect all batteries and reset any electronic clocks/items etc.
J. Roof Vent Seals

Look for signs of deterioration and reseal and caulk when needed with sealing compound (also check the caulk around the windows.)
Note: Do Not walk on roof without proper support to distribute weight.

Outbackers Contributor
90 Posts
I found that the handle used to pull out the rear slide on our trailer was loose, as I was washing the trailer last week. After I tightened it, I went around the whole trailer and tighted every screw I could find. I was surprised how many were loose. I also went insde and tightened everything. Many of the cabinets and knobs were loose. This would probably be a good once a year thing, they must work loose as the trailer bounces down the road.

Outbackers Contributor
4,740 Posts
I always put a little bleach throught the water system. We don't drink the water from it anyway, but a little preventive measure will keep out the bad stuff before it gets out of hand. Don't forget to flush the outside shower either.
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