We are very happy with this combination. I was really impressed with how much the chock locks take the bounce out of the trailer (we use two). And the lynx levelers are very easy to use and drive up on. It is an investment, imo, well worth it
When using the boards...as you will experience, if you have to stack too many they will have the tendency to slide. Which can be very frustrating for everyone in "hearing range"
(we were camping with someone who had this problem....not fun)
We use the Lynx levelers as well, and have used the same set on three campers now. A set of 10 blocks works well. They make it easy to ramp up and no slipping off them. 2x6 boards work well too, having one long enough for both wheels helps, then have smaller pieces to fit under if needed.
I have a custom cut set of 2x6 boards. They fit between the two axels perfectly, and the next one up is cut a bit shorter, in succession. I think I have them to go 4 high for each wheel, but rarely use more than 1 or 2. Never had one slip...not even on snow. I have them numbered 1, 2, 3, etc. I have a thinner set as well, made from thinner stock. Works for me.
I have the 2x6 boards as well. 50Â¢ each in the misc. bin at Home Depot. I stagger mine about 1" when laying them on each other to "create" a ramp instead of sawing them at 45 degree angles.
I usually pull forward onto the boards, then back off of them when leaving. If you pull forward off the boards, they are staggered the wrong way, and will whack the bottom of the frame behind the wheels. Been there, done that.
For a back-in site, I would back over the staggered boards, then pull forward off.
We purchased two level-air leveling bags recently. I have used them in the driveway and they work great. They are a little pricey, but boy do they make leveling easy. They offer an added benefit in that after you are level, when you put out your slide, you may no longer be level. All you have to do is add, or release, a little air and you are level again. Can't do that with boards, or even lynx blocks. They are rock solid when inflated. We use them with a two sets of rotochoks and the trailer is solid.
Wood is still the cheapest but these are much easier to deal with and can be stored in a very small space. They will lift the wheels up to 6" when fully inflated. You don't have to worry about slipping off or getting the exact combination of 1 x 6 and 2 x 6 to get the leveling you want.
We were somewhat skeptical but the manufacturer sent us a set and said if we didn't like them, just send them back. If we keep them, just send him a check. Nice guy to do business with.
You put the leveling bags under the two wheels on the low side of the trailer and then you inflate the two bags just enough to level the trailer. They act like "inflatable boards" or "inflatable lynx blocks." You don't lift the trailer off of the wheels, you lift the wheels like everybody else does but with a lot less hassle. Pretty slick.
Warm Creek Manufacturing
11832 Maple Ridge Circle
Sandy, UT 84094
Call Guy and talk to him. He seems like a nice guy. Certainly very trusting and very confident in his product. He will be glad to tell you anything you want to know. He seems to be selling a lot of these.
I inflate mine with a 12 volt little emergency tire inflation pump that I keep in the car. Guy indicates most people just use a foot pump like a bicycle pump. They can only take a maximum of 50 psi.
As for chocks, I use two pair of rotochoks to secure the wheels. I pull onto the two bags, one under each wheel on the side of the trailer that is low. I then install the rotochoks. I unhitch the trailer. I then inflate the level-air bags until the trailer is level side to side. I then raise or lower the hitch jack until the trailer is level front to back. I then lower the staibilizers onto the blocks on the ground. We're done.
If we put the slide out and the level changes, we can add, or release, air from the bags as required to re-level the trailer side to side. If the trailer level changes over a period of days for any reason, you can adjust the level by changing the inflation just enough to compensate. You can't do that with boards or leveling blocks.
I think it is important to have the clamping type chocks, like rotochoks or others, to secure against any movement. I think it would be difficult to use the standard, wedge-shaped chocks that you put in front of and behind the wheels on the ground. I don't think that they would work well on the leveling bags.
I made a level switch and put led lights on both front corners. when i pull onto a site i flip a switch and witch ever light is on is the low side. Then i put the wedges i made from 4 x 4's be hind the low wheels get in my burb an back untill the other light comes on and PRESTO it's level. No quessing how many boards
A forum community dedicated to Keystone Outbacker RV owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, travel trailers, 5th wheels, appliances, towing, camping, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!