Outbacker RV Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Outbackers Contributor
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy All,

I am happy to announce the completion of two big ones today. Not that they were all that difficult, it is just that any time you are cutting a hole or putting a screw into the wall, frame, floor or any other part of the trailer, it is a little nerve wracking. I did purchae a Black and Decker stud finder that works for both wood and metal studs, it also identifies when there is an electrical current in the wall. It seems to work pretty good.

Back to the mods. I purchased, on-line, from the Intellitec company, a battey disconnect switch that was designed for RV use. The device consists of a display panel, an electromechanical relay swich and a connecting wire. The kit, which was $127.00, delivered, included everything that is needed for the installation and very clear and eazy to follow directions. Following some advice, that I received here from Outbackers, I used the provided template to cut a hole in the wall, just above the light switches that are mounted on a forward closet wall. Using the existing access that brought wire to the light switches, I was able to route the provided wire down to the floor. I drilled thru the floor into the area that is between the covered paart and the outside wall. Thus I had access to the wire, without having to drop the cover. I routed the wire up to the front of the trailer, wher I mounted the relay switch and connected the wire per the instructions. I sealed all the holes and screws, including the ones that Keystome had put there with Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive and Sealant.

The result was a very clean installation, that works perfectly. I can now stand inside the trailer, flip one swich and both batteries go into a storage mode. there is virtally no draw whatsoever. Further, there is a monitor that will give you a voltage reading with the flip of a switch. When needed, you simply turn the batteries back on and you are in business.

My second mod of the day was not quite so dramatic. I replaced the existing plastic med chest in the bathroom with one that we purchased at Target. It is slightly larger and heavier, so I supported some of the weight on a flush mounting bracket. I measured out the spacing for the screws and used the same screw holes to mount the new chest. The wife is now happy, and we all know that when the wife is happy
we are all happy too.

Thats all for now,

Tom sunny

oh yeah, I almost forgot, while I was in the bath room I used a little Dap tub and tile quick seal to finish the job that was started a the mfg and not finished. You know just a little seal aarount the top of the shower/tub surround.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Great idea for a mod Tom. I am definitely gonna keep that one in mind. If you get a chance, post a few photos. Nice job.

Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
It was my understanding that the top of the tub/shower surround is unsealed on purpose. Something about allowing mosture to evaporate. So what's the consensus seal or not seal it?
 

·
Outbackers Contributor
Joined
·
4,452 Posts
It was my understanding that the top of the tub/shower surround is unsealed on purpose. Something about allowing mosture to evaporate. So what's the consensus seal or not seal it?
Mine was sealed, I presume by the dealer when they did their own PDI, as the caulk is definately not the same color as any other caulk in the bathroom. Tney also mounted all the bathroom hardware, but that is the subject of another thread.

As far as allowing moisture to evaporate, if there is any moisture behind that surround, in my opinion, something is leaking that shouldn't be. After all, when I replaced the surround in my master bathroom in the house, I caulked up and down.

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Tom

Which web site did you use to buy the battery disconnect kit made by Intellitec. I have been able to locate the parts, but not all of them sold as a kit. I think I am going to add this mod as you did to my 28BHS.

I think that I am also going to add the Marshall RCI-24 Remote LP tank switch-over indicator. It is a device that mounts onto the existing LP regulator that is mounted between the tanks. This device has a box that is mounted inside the TT that is connected by a wire to the regulator on the tanks. When one of the tanks is empty, and automatically switches to the other tank, a light on the remote box lights up to let you know that one of the tanks is empty and needs to be refilled. This keeps you from having to take off the LP cover every now and then to see if it has switched over, and one of the tanks is empty.

I figure that I can mount the 2 boxes (battery disconnect controller panel, and the LP switch-over indicator) next to each other inside the TT and route the wires together.

Has anybody else out there used one of these Marshal Remote LP indicators? Does it work as advertised?
 

·
Outbackers Contributor
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mac,

Sorry for the misleading language shy , the parts for the battery disconnect are sold separately. I found the company on-line at WWW.intellitecsve.com. I called the company at 1-800-251-2408, and talked to a customer rep. I told him how the trailer batteries were set up and what I wanted to do. He told me what I needed to do the job, and I ordered the parts over the phone.

Hope this helps,

Tom
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top