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Okay, we picked up our 25RS-S on Feb. 19, 2004 at dealer. During walk through, it was plugged in so everything was working.

I came home yesterday to hear CO2 detector going off inside trailer....yellow light which indicates 'faulty'.....also, noticed at this time, that nothing would turn on with 12 V battery....no lights, no fan, etc....the CO2 detector was going off because there probably was not enough juice from battery.

We have played around in it off and on while connected shore power since 2/19/04 when we picked it up...only exception is that I opened slide and did somethings Saturday with no connection to shore power. Did I overuse it?

Dealer says we should have plugged into shore power for 3 days when we first got it....this is the first time I have heard that....to fully 'charge' battery. If we bring it to them and there is nothing wrong with it, they said they have to charge us 'labor' charge. Should the battery be like it is already?

Addl. GFI outlet in bathroom will not trip during test phase....does this have anything to do with 12 V battery being out.....I tried the GFI outlet at dealer and it worked, but this past saturday on 12V, it did not.

Hate to drive 1 hr away and possibly get charged for something I can handle.

Addl. Radio fuse is loose in converter box, could this be 'radio buzz' we hear when converter comes on from radio?

Thanks!
 

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The converter installed in our rigs is a fairly decent battery charger as well. However, I doubt it would take 3 days to charge the batterys. Every "trickle" charger I have ever owned would completely charge a near dead battery overnight. I don't think there is anything substantially different here. Someone else check in here on this.

If you have not been charging the battery or leave it hooked up, then yes operating the slide could have been the final nail in the coffin.

Why not take the batteries down to Pep Boys or the like for a free bench test?

The GFCI tester in the outlet will only work when you are connected to shore power. So don't worry about it.

I do believe that the CO sensor will act-up as you described when 12V goes low.

A loose fuse can definately add noise to the radio circuit and is hopefully your problem.

Good Luck!
 

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The CO detector will drain the battery dead if you're not hooked up.

Ditto on everything else Jim said.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for you input.

How can I tighten up the fuse for the radio, it practically falls out when I touch it?

Is it a good idea to disconnect the CO 2 detector when in storage/not being used.
or shoud we disconnect the battery when not in use?

Is it realistic for the battery to go so low after minimum use, even with th CO 2 detector on. We checkd and everything is turned off, including the refrg.

Thanks
 

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Just get a pair of pliers and press the ends where the fuse slides into. Just press enough to get some tension when you slide the fuse back in. if your not comfortable about doing this take it back to the dealer and let them do it.

Pete action
 

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I had a bad time with the detctor, it would "eat" the fully charged battery in 12 hours. I had the dealer check it out, said it was fine. Checked out the battery also. I ended up putting a [
]lighted toggle on the detector itself. Its lighted so I dont forget it. works greatnow!
 

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First things first...

CO = Carbon Monoxide (your detector)
CO 2 = Carbon Dioxide
LP = Liquid Propane

Not to be smart, but others are sure to read the thread and may get confused.

Your LP GAS detector is a constant drain on the battery. You can install a battery disconnect switch on the battery terminal that will make it easy to disconnect completely, so nothing will drain the battery while stored. (even hidden compart lights you may have forgotten to shut off). Camping World sells them, and some on this forum have them installed, and can help you with it.

It doesn't take long to drain a single 12 volt battery without anything turned on. You can add more batteries that will make your 12 volt power last longer. There is another thread on that subject.

Remember...if you install some sort of switch to cut the juice to your LP detector, MAKE CERTAIN you kick it back on while you are inside the trailer. It is important to be warned of a propane leak, as it's a very explosive gas. Propane is heavier than air, hence the detector is mounted near the floor where gas will collect first.

No electric outlet on your camper will work without shore power hooked up. Only lights, fans, radio, slide out, pump, etc work on 12 volt.

Good luck.
 

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Sounds like a bum battery, is it full of water? If it's a 12v problem you could plug it into your tow vehicle and see if it works. I'm dissappointed your dealer is threatening to charge you already. You'd think they'd be more than happy to please a recent customer, ours has been accomodating. Good luck
 

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Do you know if it was on the camper before you bought it? If so it would probably be wise to take it back and get a new one from the dealer. Do you have a deep cycle charger? You can get one at Wal-Mart and they do a much better job than charging from the converter. Most converters will just trickle charge your battery, but for long life and maximum amps you'll want to deep cycle charge it. I use our deep cycle charger before and after each trip to make sure my battery is in good condition. Unless I am working in it at home I unplug it from the house and disconnect the battery so it doesn't drain.
 

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My 25RSS only has an LP Gas Detector and a 9V battery powered Smoke Detector. Have you added an additional CO Detector as well that uses the 12V battery source?

Units such as Nighthawk or First Alert?


I plan to buy a Carbon Monoxide Detector (CO) for my rig when I get it.

Firefighter Wencl

Goodview Fire & Rescue
 

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We were told at the dealer that you do not need a CO detector since the furnace exhausts out the trailer. But my wife insisted we take the wall outlet / plug-in CO detector that sits in our bedroom with us when we go camping. Can't hurt I suppose.

Randy
 

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There...I fixed my post.

My trailer didn't come with a CO detector either, but I added one. (Nighthawk)

CO can still build up for 3 reasons:
1. If the furnace has or gets a defect that compromises the unit.
2. The water heater has or gets a defect that compromises the unit.
3. Stove top cooking or oven use (LP gas) inside the trailer.

Trailers are small, and it doesn't take much to put you in the danger zone.
PS...CO is also an explosive gas, given the right mixture.

I consider it a must to have a CO Detector in my trailer.
Cheap life insurance!
 

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Well put ... a CO Detector is always a good idea.

Yes what you can't smell or see can kill you.

Better off with a CO Detector than without one.

Michael
 

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Michael...

I had to look up GOODVIEW on the map. I was born and raised in MINNESOTA myself. I currently reside in ND.
I am also a career Firefighter/Rescue/EMT. (21 years)

I have relatives near you in Winona, MN.
 

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The only RV's that are required by law to have the CO detector are motorized types, but I agree with everyone else here in saying it is a must. As a career firefighter myself, we do not go into atmospheres with CO concentrations greater then 35parts per million without wearing Self Contained Breathing Apparatus. Just to give you an idea, I have a Nighthawk detector in my garage, which we don't park the cars in, and just my Avalanche warming up outside the door has caused a reading of 50 ppm on the nighthawk.

They are not expensive, and it may save your life.

Tim
 

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I just thought of 2 more constant battery drains....

One is obvious...the fridge light, if the door is opened for venting.

The other is the CLIMATE CONTROL HEATER located in the fridge. Check to ensure the switch is OFF, because it is a constant 12 volt draw.
 

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NDJOLLYMON,
What is that climate control thing in the fridge. I've been meaning to look it up but the trailer's stored, with the book's inside and I keep forgetting to check it out. Your post jogged by memory.
 

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There is a CLIMATE CONTROL switch inside the freezer. (open the freeze door, it's on the top frame) It's purpose is to evaporate moisture on the metal area between the freezer and fresh food compartment during high heat/humidity situations. Most times, you don't need to use it. But if the switch is accidentally left on, it draws 12 volt juice from your batteries, and that could be why your battery don't last long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
okay....you are all right...it is LP detector sucking the life out of battery...although I will also be getting a co detector now that it all make sense!

We have purchased the battery cut off switch and will be installing that...seems easiest solution.

Also, have a electrician coming to install separate 110V 30 Amp receptacle outside for trailer plug in.

Thanks for all repies!
 
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