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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am headed over to the local RV store to see if they have any parts so I can vent the hood outside. These units can be set up that way and there is enough room to do it. Has anyone switched their's over to vent out through the sidewall? Kirk
 

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I'm contemplating it. On my 21RS, there is an aluminum wall stud in the way and I'll have to move the outside light a little. I was just going to cut around the stud and put the vent in. It will restrict the airflow a little, but it should be alright.

Would be a nice addition because every time we use the stove, the smoke alarm goes off. Fortunately we cook outside most of the time. I don't know why keystone didn't vent them in the first place.

Mike
 

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Kirk I'm really interested in this mod too, we had our Kiwi vent to the outside and though I cook a lot outside its nice when you cook inside to get the odors out as fast as possible. I'll be watching to see what you find out. Right now though I am still leaning to putting in a Maxx/Aire fan in the main cabin to vent any cooking odors and steam.
 

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I don't know if this is something new or not, but our '04 25RS-S has a vent hood under the microwave (which is above the stove/oven). I just looked and the vent is on the roof right above that area.

Maybe this is new from Keystone?
 

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NW,

We had this discussion recently and I had allways assumed that the vent hood you speak of was for the exhaust fan under the microwave. Those in the know here corrected me and told me that the fan under the microwave vents back into the TT and that the vent hood you see on top of the TT is for the refridge.
 

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CamperDC is correct. If you put your hand above the microwave you'll feel the air venting right back into the camper. Isn't that special!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will keep you guy's posted on the progress. From rough measurements I should miss the light but may have to move it over a little. As far as studs I will most likely cut around them because I think you are right it won't have much of an effect on the air flow. So far I have a whole 15.oo dollars invested and maybe some chalking. The hardest part to figuire out was How did they attach the microwave to the wall. So everyone knows you remove the top grill plate and there are two long screws that go into a backing plate, this is all that holds it into place. Also there is another filter behind the front exaust grill. Kirk
 

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Kirk,

Have installed micro's over stoves in my cabinet business. There is usually a bracket mounted to the wall with clips on it. If you remove those two screws on the top, it should tilt down towards you and then you can lift it off of the clips.

Mike
 
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Kirk,
I'm interested in this, too. While you're in there, is there enough room to install some sort of diverter valve, so that you could vent it either way? I try to stretch the season as long as I can. Fall gets kind of chilly around here, and I'd like to save some heat if possible. If not, I'd rather vent to the outside. Thanks for pioneering this.

Happy camping,

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Gary, When I was reading the manual one of the steps that has to be done is to remove the motor and rotate the blower discharge to the top of the microwave. So I would have to say no you can't put in a valve to vent it both ways. I will try to take some pic's as the work progresses. Kirk
 

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Gary,

If the microwave in the Outback is set up like the GE in my house, like Kirk said there is no way to alternate between the two discharge locations.

With the motor in one position, you can vent back to the inside, through a charcoal filter setup. With the motor in the other position, you can vent either to the top, and through the ceiling, then either the roof, or like my house, the soffit; or the back if you happen to be on an outside wall, like the Outback.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok guy's it's done. Unfortunatly my wife took the camera with her to work today, so no pic's. I will try to explain as best as I can. First I have a 25RSS and I don't know if they are all the same. There are no studs in the way, it looks like they only run the studs high enough to attach the microwave back plate. They did install a thin piece of sheet metal between the studs behind the wood for support but it also only goes behind the backing plate.

parts needed: 1- through the wall oven vent cover 3.5"x10"(flat if you can find one), 1- sheet metal stacked head boot 3.5"x10"x5.5", 1-can expandable foam, 1- roll 1/2" foam tape, 1- roll silver foil tape, misc. screws.

1) remove microwave
2) locate "V" mark center line on backing plate, locate center of 3.5x10" opening on the box and mark.
3) The stacked head boot has a 3.5x10" opening and a 5.5x10" opening, use the 3.5" end and the top edge of the backing plate and mark the wall centering on the "V" groove. You should have a square on the wall 3.5x10"
4) Use a small drill and drill a series of holes in the box on the wall to see if there are any studs. In the 25rss there are none in the way, you will find some thin flat metal used to support the bracket but this is excess and you are only trimming it.
5) use a dremmel tool and cut only the wood and excess metal even with the top edge of the bracket and remove wood square and foam.
6) put 3.5x10" end of box into hole and re-mark the wall
7) drill holes at the four corners through the fiberglass wall
8) take box outside and using the 4 holes mark the wall, then cut using dremmel tool. you will be right below the awning by aprox. 1.5" and will clear the light.
9) Go to microwave and remove silver plate that covers motor, gently lift motor and rotate 90 degrees, remove the two knock-outs and reinstall plate.
10) take the stack head boot and at the 5.5x10 opening cut the corners about 1/2 to 3/4 inches, only bend the 3 outside edges the one closeet to the wall can remain straight. Bend the 3 edges at a 90 degree angle out from the box. The box should set on the microwave and cover the fan discharge opening with the un-bent edge sitting down along the wall bracket side.
11) put boot back into wall, the bent edge should line up with the top edge of the wall bracket - level- and the un-bent(straight) edge should sit between the wall and the bracket.
12) go outside and mark the excess metal sticking through the wall, it should be aprox. 1". Remove box and cut only top and bottom excess leaving the 3.5" sides long.
13) put foam tape on the bent edge that sits on the microwave
14) put box back into wall
15) put microwall back onto wall
16) go outside and postion box on top of microwave and use silver foil tape to seal all edges on the inside of the box, turn on fan and make sure nothing is hitting and the fan runs smoothly
17) use expandable foam and seal the edge between the wall and the box
18) bend the uncut edges of the box to the wall and drill and screw the box edges to the wall using as 4- 3/4"x6# screws. This and the tape holds the box into place.
19) install and seal the flat 3.5"x10" plastic vent cover, you may need to cut-off the flange if you can't find a flat cover.
20) open beer and clean-up the mess, then have another.

This took me around 5 hours to complete but I was taking my time so nothing went wrong. On a scale of 1-10 this is a 7 because of all the little steps that need to be done. Good luck and it isn't as hard as it sounds. Kirk
 

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Kirk thanks for the detailed update!!! I think I'm going to stick with the TurboMaxx fan
That sounds like a lot of work.
 
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Kirk, Thanks for the update. Would you post some pics when you get a chance. My microwave is mounted on the aft wall, so I may have a whole new set of problems.

Happy camping,

Gary
 

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Y-Guy,

I like your MaxxFan idea also.

Kirk, that sounds like a huge challenge that was sucessful. Good job and thanks for the detailed instructions. Does the fan draw enough air to make a difference? My micro fan at home does not capture very good at all. I will probably only get to step number 20 on your list.

I still haven't even finished building the 4x4 wheel chocks yet, need to go to my dad's where my bandsaw is. Should finish tonight.

Thanks for the info,

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Kevin, half way through the project I was wondering if it was going to be worth it but yes it does exhaust really good. The sad thing is that all you have to show for the work is a little vent on the outside wall and my wife thinks I'm nut's but she will use it. I guess that is why Keystone does not put this in because of the labor and time involved. Step 20 kind of made it all worth while, Kirk
 

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I'm right behind you Kirk, thanks for pioneering this one. Picked up the parts and I'll be tackling it first chance I get.

Mike
 

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I guess that is why Keystone does not put this in because of the labor and time involved
Of course, if you are doing this as you build the trailer, and take it into account during the framing process, it probably works out to a lot less labor and steps. Of course I am only speculating here, but....I will probably be doing it also, but it is low on the priority list right now. I need to finish the house before I start on the Outback.


Tim
 
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