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2019 Keystone Outback Ultra-Lite 240URS
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I have a 2019 Outback Ultra-Lite 240URS with a rear king bed slide. After a two week 3,500 mile trip I noticed when doing some work in the trailer that the interior bottom hard plastic liner under the king bed has come partially detached (see picture). The liner appears to be attached to the far end of the bed but is hanging loose at the other.

Is this a common issue with rear slide bed areas? Is there a recommended way to reattach the liner? I have not tried to extend the slide out since I noticed the problem back in July.

 

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I had a similar but not as severe problem with this on our 2013 250RS. I found that the front edge of the liner was installed only with double sided tape which would occasionally come loose. Ended up tracking it up with short stainless screws along the front edge. After looking at the other edges, I decided to track them up the same way. Used about one screw per foot just to make sure the liner stays where it is supposed to be. Had the entire liner drop out on our prior trailer a 2008 21RS and it was quite a job getting it back in place. It had a manual slide and different construction which made the job harder.
 
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I’d say it is fairly common. I have a 2012 210RS (shorter version of your floor plan) and have experienced that also. In my case the rear and side edges were still held up by the metal lip around the perimeter of the slide. It mainly hung down in the front when the slide was in. The rollers for the slide hold it up… for that reason, at least in my case, I’d could still move the slide in and out.

I have tried screws like others have but with mixed success. A problem is, I think, you cannot get the thing up against the bottom of the bed perfectly without anti-gravity or turning the trailer upside down. So you always have the underliner flexed a little bit when you install screws. Then moving the slide in and out over the rollers causing the underliner to flex some putting sideways pressure on the screws… eventually loosening the screws. I have had some one my screws fall out. I have replaced them with longer screws (1 1/4”) but am expecting that the same will happen to them at some point.

Ultimately it seems like what is needed is some adhesive under there that can flex a bit. I suspect that is what Keystone attempted… but with varied success. And I cannot think of a way to get it all down, adhesive applied, and the liner anti-gravitied back up into the adhesive (and under the metal lips and over the rollers).

I sometimes wonder if we really even need that underliner. What if we tore it down and just coated it with something… epoxy paint or something? I suspect the rollers would be too hard on the plywood or osb or whatever is under it. So.. just daydreaming.
 

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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Bob, did you end up fixing this issue?
I just checked mine, and sure enough, the entire front width of the panel is hanging down just like yours.
Mine: 2011 250RS

I am considering both double-sided carpet (which is super sticky and very durable) and short SS screws.

Fulminator: Any reason you did not go with tape?
Where did you place screws?
What size/type screws did you use?
I don't want to run screws into anything critical (path of rollers, wires, etc), but they need to screw into something solid.

Thanks
 

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There was already double sided tape on mine. That was the only thing holding the liner up in the front. I stuck it down again and put a row of screw about an inch from the front edge and a foot apart. Just need enough fastening to keep it from sagging.
 
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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Fulminator, sorry for all the questions, but I'll be doing repair myself and want to get it right the first time.

So that would have been approx. 8 screws across the front width?
What type/size SS crews did you use?
Do you know what material it it being screwed into?

You mentioned you did all 4 sides....was that with your 250RS or your previous trailer?
Any screws in center area or just edges?

Thanks!
 

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The quantity sounds right. I think I used 6s or 8s. 8s will have a larger head so more area to hold up the liner. It may not matter much. The heads are pressing the liner back on to the double sided tape and helps keep it stuck, not letting it droop. I used the shortest screws as I could get. 3/" or 1/2". Not sure which. There was plywood that the double sided tape was stuck to at the front edge. I just can't remember how thick it was.
 
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Here is what it looks like.

Wood Tints and shades Composite material Automotive exterior Metal
 
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