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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at my rear king bed slide today, I noticed that it sloped a tad bit down at rear of slide. I started thinking, what supports the slide when it is out? Especially considering it is rated to 1000#. It looks like if you put 500#s on it, it would just bend and break off!!
 

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Probably need to have the cable tightened. Haven't had to do that on mine.
 
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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also considered adjusting. However, until I can confirm via Keystone and slide manufacturer what is the correct bed slide position when deployed and how to properly adjust, I will defer.
 

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This is mine on the lot at the dealer. Maybe the slightest downward pitch to the rear, I was told for drainage. What I don’t have is anything over that or the side slideout. I know there are no awnings but is there supposed to be roof material on top of the slides themselves?
Automotive parking light Vehicle Tire Motor vehicle Wheel
 

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If I remember correctly it should be rubber roof membrane on top. To make sure the manual slide it adjusted correctly, check the gap between the inside wall and the lip on the slip out. It should be even, top and bottom. Also, with this type of slide it matters that you have the supports in the right place. One support should have a big "R" stamped on it. I think the stamp is on the bracket on the horizontal beam where it connects to the trailer. That one goes on the right side as you are looking at the slide when standing behind the trailer. The reason that it is important which side the supports go on is because there was a lot of variation with the trailers were built. It isn't unusual to see the brackets on the trailer at different heights on both sides.
 

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Can’t find an R or L on supports but will get younger eyes on it. As soon as this weather passes I will get some roof material on slide and over BR. The info I got with camper says roof was replaced with PVC around 7 years so good there for now. And pretty sure gap around slip out is not even all the way around. Guessing that adjustment is not for an all-thumbs person such as myself. Thanks for the info.
 

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2011 280 RS Front Side Load Toyhauler
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New to this forum and have a 2011 280 RS (front side load toy hauler). I have wondered about the cables that drive this system as well. Have you found any documentation from the manufacturer of this and how to service this? I am very curious about what would happen if the electric drive motor that drives this slide were to fail.

I have noticed that it just "sounds" strained when going out or in and I am very careful to release drive swtitch quickly when it reaches full extension or retraction. To make life easier on the motor (at least until I find out if the slow operation is normal)r I will often help it in or out by giving it a push while wifey manages the switch. It speeds up considerably when doing this and does not sound as strained.

1. Do this normally operate slowly and sound strained? What is approximate time to retract or extend with full battery?
2. Is there a manual extend/retract procedure if motor fails? At one time I did peek inside and found a PN for the motor, it was quite expensive so I was not inclined to order it until I understood the system and if it was normal.

I am a fan of preventative maintenance and learning how to repair critical systems before you need to. It would be a major disruption to have to learn how to repair or jury rig system when arriving at the races or packing up to go home. Better to learn ahead of time or service to prevent. I tried calling Forrest River but just got bounced around and nowhere fast so I found this forum in search of answers.
 

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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New to this forum and have a 2011 280 RS (front side load toy hauler). I have wondered about the cables that drive this system as well. Have you found any documentation from the manufacturer of this and how to service this? I am very curious about what would happen if the electric drive motor that drives this slide were to fail.

I have noticed that it just "sounds" strained when going out or in and I am very careful to release drive swtitch quickly when it reaches full extension or retraction. To make life easier on the motor (at least until I find out if the slow operation is normal)r I will often help it in or out by giving it a push while wifey manages the switch. It speeds up considerably when doing this and does not sound as strained.

1. Do this normally operate slowly and sound strained? What is approximate time to retract or extend with full battery?
2. Is there a manual extend/retract procedure if motor fails? At one time I did peek inside and found a PN for the motor, it was quite expensive so I was not inclined to order it until I understood the system and if it was normal.

I am a fan of preventative maintenance and learning how to repair critical systems before you need to. It would be a major disruption to have to learn how to repair or jury rig system when arriving at the races or packing up to go home. Better to learn ahead of time or service to prevent. I tried calling Forrest River but just got bounced around and nowhere fast so I found this forum in search of answers.

I have never timed the in/out time for my slides. They do go slow, but have never seemed to be straining. Thery appear to operate as other slides in previous trailers I have owned.

If you called Forest River you called the wrong place. You need to call Keystone (Owned by Thor).

When I contacted Keystone for manuals and info on my trailer they were very helpful. They sent me most manuals for the trailer. They were unable to identify exactly which slides I had (rear king bed and side table slide), so they sent me manuals for the slides they commonly use. You should be able to identify which slides you have from these manuals.
I have attached the four manuals they sent me.

I agree. I, too, like to know how systems work and how they are maintained, serviced, and repaired.
I hope the manuals help you find what you need.
 

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2011 280 RS Front Side Load Toyhauler
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SoCal, Thanks for the manual. I skimmed it and found this-

"Before going over final adjustments, there are a few things to note about this system…
The Accu-Slide is a give and take system between the cables if the inside and outside opposing
cables are too tight you will cause the motor to be over worked leading to trouble later on."

I also found a reference to a flex drive attachment to attach to motor for manual operation. This is exactly the information I needed. I will double check the adjustments and source the manual tool. Resting easy after that!
Thanks!!
 

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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FYI....While reattaching a trim piece of molding on the upper part of rear wall and doing some cleaning, I noticed the flex tool that is referenced in the Accu-Slide manual. I found it underneath the slide tucked under bottom wall/slide area (slide partially IN).

I decided to adjust the rear king electric bed. When the slide is OUT, the lower cable has approx. 1-1.5" of play/slack. It is also sloped down towards rear. It appears to be too much slope; much more than is needed for water to drain away from trailer.

I will contact Norco Industries/BAL and see if tech dept can assist. The manual is pretty clear, but I'll ask for any tips and what is considered properly adjusted.

I'll report back my findings and results.
 

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2011 280 RS Front Side Load Toyhauler
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Can you describe what the tool is? Is it a 1/4 drive socket type extension except flexible or some other form factor? Might try to order or find one somewhere. I also wonder about slow or labored sound while operating if that is an adjustment or just the nature of the mechanism. For now I "assist" by pushing it while wifey operates the switch and the speed ad sound of motor changes significantly with a small push or pull.
 

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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can you describe what the tool is? Is it a 1/4 drive socket type extension except flexible or some other form factor? Might try to order or find one somewhere. I also wonder about slow or labored sound while operating if that is an adjustment or just the nature of the mechanism. For now I "assist" by pushing it while wifey operates the switch and the speed ad sound of motor changes significantly with a small push or pull.
The tool is as you described…. Flexible drive extension. It is zip tied to a piece of wood and I did not remove it yet. It shouldn’t be hard to source. I’ll see if I can get a pic of tool.
 

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2011 Outback 250RS 2003 Ford F-350, V10
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Here is a pic of tool. It is used solely for extending and retracting slide in the event the motor is inoperable. You can use any similar 1/4" drive tool, as there is nothing unique about it.

Rear Slide Room Adjustments:
I called BAL and received excellent customer service.
My trailer uses the "Double-Back" system. ALL Accu-Slide support manuals can be found on the balrvproducts.com website. They are very useful.

Below are the procedures I followed:

Adjusted rear King Bed slide. Slide was tilted downward at the rear of the slide when looking at side view (profile) of trailer. Bottom portion of slide room was not seating against interior of rear wall.

Adjusting Rear Bed Slide.

NOTE: Take a few pictures of the system, cable ends, etc. so that you can refer back to them as needed.

1. Loosen both IN cables on both sides of slide room. Cables and adjustments are located below the front of the bed. Facia paneling needs to be removed to provide access.

2. Lift rear of slide room with a floor jack and section of wood until room is level (should only need to jack up 1"-2"). Check inside to verify slide is now contacting the rear wall and sealing.

3. If so, TIGHTEN OUT-BOTTOM cable. Remove jack.

4. Now TIGHTEN OUT-TOP cable to match tension of OUT-BOTTOM cable that was just tightened in step 3. These procedures will push the bottom of the slide room out to contact interior of wall.

5. Now tighten BOTH IN cables so that ½” deflection is achieved on outside exterior cables (TOP and BOTTOM). Move cables up/down at center of cable between rear edge of slide and trailer rear end wall. Replace the small sponge anti-vibration insulators in the same place where they were.

Done!

Per BAL/Norco Industries, manufacturer of slide mechanism....

-When slide is IN… it is OK to sleep on bed
-No bottom support bar is needed during travel
-When driving with slide IN, Top and Bottom IN cables are supporting the slide
room

I hope this information helps those that may need to adjust their rear king bed slide.

AFTER Adjustment profile pic below. Although it may not look much different from the BEFORE pic I posted at the beginning of the thread, as it only need about 1" of adjustment......

Per BAL/Norco...a properly adjusted slide is not necessarily 100% level (ex. using a level on top of slide room). When the inside of trailer ends of slide room (top and bottom) seal/touch rear wall on top and bottom, it is considered properly adjusted.
 

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