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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall
I'm a decent jack of all trades, but when i winterized my 25rs-s I had a heck of a time getting the antifreeze into the fresh water tank. I used three different funnels even one with a 14 inch neck stucked as far as it would go into the tank. The problem was the antifreeze was pouring back out the tank as fast as I was pouring it in. And no the tank was'nt full. I finally got two gallons in because I was catching it as it was pouring out and then pouring it back in. The neck of the tank could not have been clogged because remember I had a 14 inch spout down in it. We have never used the fresh water tank before because every time we been out, we always had city hook ups. What am I doing wrong?
 

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I've never winterized by putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank. You can get a winterizing kit that installs onto the water pump right on the intake side and allows you to bypass the tank and draw antifreeze right out of the gallon jugs it comes in. They're very easy to install and cost about 15 dollars. You don't wind up with any antifreeze in your fresh water tank and it is very easy to winterize the rest of the system.
 

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Hi Woodtrailman, I don't think that your problem has anything to do with the antifreeze. I too had never used my fresh water tank in my 28rss until a few weeks ago when I was winter camping at a CG that had the water shut off for the winter. In trying to fill my fresh water tank so I could have water for the weekend I found that the water would not go in but just kept running back out the opening. No matter how or what I tried I could get little or no water into the tank. I even opened the faucets and the drain under the tank to make sure that. 1) it wasnt a vaccuum. and 2) the tank wasn't full already. Anyway to make a long story longer. I called the dealer and told him what was up. He said I should look at the water line going into the TT under the Dinette seat. Apparently in some models the Line is installed with such an upward kink that the water will not flow and will only bounce back out the line. he told me I that if I could I should get some tie downs and pull the line down to where it would flow and tie it off. Or if I could wait I could bring it back to him and he would re-pipe it so it would work. I did pull up the Dinette seat and sure enough the line had a huge upward arc in it. I tried to push it down but the space was limited and I could find no place to tie it off anyway. Since I didn't absolutlely need the fresh water tank I decided to let the dealer fix the problem in the spring. However in the meantime I did see a gadget in a campstore that had a long neck with a hose adapter on it that would slide down the fresh water tank line for about 10 inches and supposedy would shoot the water past any problem I may try that before I take it back to the dealer. Hope that this helps some.

BOB action
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Katiesda, Sure enough I took the seat cover off and the line from the water pump had the fresh water line at an arch.
So I rearanged the lines. Camping I was just following the owners manual by putting the antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Besides I know you drain the fresh water but, short of blowing the tank out would there be a litte water that could cause some damage? I'm still new at this and I have a lot to learn. thanks
 

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I guess since keystone doesn't install a winterizing kit (I think very few manufacturers do) the only other way is to add it to the fresh water tank. That way works fine, it just takes more work in the spring to flush it out really well.

If you've drained the tank using the low point drain under the trailer you're all set. Once the fresh water tank has been drained using the low point drain, what little water is left in the tank won't cause any damage if it freezes. I removed the plug on mine and left it out while I moved the trailer to where I am storing it for the winter so the water would slosh around and drain out.

Feel free to ask away, everyone here is happy to help each other out
 

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Bob is right...
I had to shorten my water tank fill hose as well. I just sliced some of it off and re-attached it with the clamp. Works fine now. Design flaw.
 

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Hey katiesda,
I had the same problem when I tried to fill up the fresh water tank on my 28rss. I bought one of the adapters you speak of and have not had the problem since.

For what it's worth.
 

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I cut the hose just ahead of my water pump and then put in a three way valve. I then put about five feet of hose on the T on the valve. Now when I want to winterize the trailer I just turn the valve, put the hose in the jug of antifreeze, turn on the pump and run each tap until it run red. Takes about 15 minutes and two jugs of antifreeze to winterize the trailer. In the spring, I'll turn the valve inline and I'm running on the water tank again. You must turn the water heater bypass on and drain you heater also.
 

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One my 3rd winter with my outback. No need to go to a lot of trouble here. All you have to do is open both lowpoint drains under the trailer. Then open all faucets and the relief valve on the water heater and open the drain in the fresh water tank. Other than drain all tanks that is it. Takes about 5 min. In the spring close all faucets and drains and turn on the water....make sure you go back to the outside of the water heater and wait for the water to come out of the relief valve, that will tell you that the water heater now has all of the air out of it.

Never had a problem doing it that way.
 

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For more "Positive Protection", you must use RV antifreeze, as stated in the Owners Manual. For warmer places, it may not be necessary. For North Dakota, you are a fool not to take the extra steps. You can never be abosolutely sure you have drained every bit of water from the system.

STORY:
My friend used to just drain and blow out the lines each year. He told me the same thing...anti freeze not necessary. I told him to use anti freeze.
Last year, it finally caught up with him. He spent the entire camping weekend buying all new pipes, faucets, and fittings because all the water still remaining froze and busted up his water system. (and he blew out the lines)


I told him so.

MY THEORY:
Learn from others mistakes.
RV Anti freeze is the cheapest RV INSURANCE there is.

Food for thought.
 

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Anyone suggestions of proper protocol for draining the anti-freeze in the spring? I'll probably go ahead and de-winterize this weekend. Not sure what the 'requirements' are for disposal of RV anti-freeze. Should I collect the fluid and have it disposed at a service center, or is it safe to drain in the sewer/dumpstation at a camp site??
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping I could drain the anti-freeze without too much worry about disposal and environmental waste.
 
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